Thursday, September 30, 2010

If I'm a "Farang" then...

Farang = Thai word for foreigner. "Funny, awkward, sweaty. Likely a sucker for overpriced services and unwanted solicitations but hey, no worries. We're glad you're here for tourism. Holy Buddha, look at her white skin."

This is what I humorously imagine most Thai people think of foreigners like myself upon first glance. Well, not the last part for everyone. I hope to imagine something else in the future. Right or wrong, from what I hear this impression is about accurate. Farang is a loosely used term for any kind of westernized foreign resident in Thailand. However, there are a few very different reasons why foreigners find themselves in Thailand for an extended stay beyond their vacation or honeymoon. For brevity, one large group includes exchange students, english teachers, and researchers (myself included) who are interested in learning about Thai culture. We come here to work, study, and enjoy Thailand for a period of time anywhere from one month to several years, while some of us stay for life. On the other hand, an inordinate number of legit and illegit NGOs entice foreign volunteers and/or self-proclaimed do-gooder missionary types here to make a difference where needed OR to misguidedly "save" others. The best of these do exceptional work and increase mutual understanding for the better. The worst of these manipulate the system and destroy native cultures in the process.
In contrast to that group of foreigners who are mostly young people, a group of more mature expats bring more by way of commerce and live very contentedly in Thailand. They include businessmen, couples, and retirees. Getting more from their foreign incomes and pensions, they afford a more care free way of life on "Thai time" and while paying for things in baht instead of dollars, euro, or pounds. Active and financially stable, this group of farang supports local economies, the arts, and their communities considerably. Thirdly in my very abbreviated list of stereotypical farang are men- young and old- here to find true love and make an honest living OR, to put it bluntly, in order satiate a desire/perversion with a fleeting pleasure in Thailand's rampant sex industry. Arguably, both these situations involve extreme risks for foreign men in Thailand. I hear from the men firsthand about the very real pleasures and pains of getting involved with Thai women and their families. Overhearing the conversation of an 80+ year old american billionaire retired here at 30 chatting about the kind of girl he'd "like to have next" at a family cafe, viewing pairs of teen boys with men my grandfather's age filling the chairs at Sunday brunch, not to mention hearing about the accepted infidelity that occurs more frequently I'm told, all could blur any ol' catholic school girl's vision. But when I find myself jumping to conclusions, I attempt to remember that no culture is exempt from the narrow perspective of outsiders, like the unlucky subject of a photograph taken from the wrong angle. It's good to remember something positive when the negatives pile up. For example, there are definitely those things I appreciate about Chiang Mai culture, let's say, than NYC culture. No one throws you the finger for not crossing at the stoplight, honking is minimal, and patient customer service is a given. =) These generalizations aren't fair to everyone, but my awareness of them gives me an understanding of what goes on around me for now.

All present frustrations aside, being a foreigner and/or American is a positive thing in Thailand. In fact, the word farang could come from the word for Frenchmen or from the word for a piece of fruit-neither being a bad association. Make friends here and be ready for a photo shoot with the whole family-instant celebrity. A good deal of the time Thai people in cities like Bangkok and Chiang mai play American music, watch American movies, and put up signs in English for us and for them to listen/watch/read, to be more western and accidentally, to make us feel at home. Amazingly, I have a handsome, native Thai trainer at the local gym who sings the lyrics to songs by Van Morrison and Britney Spears unabashedly and with a Thai accent. I listen happily as I sweat (from exercise this time) as I dream of fitting into Asian women's sportswear. For now, let it be known that it is possible to be an informed and good-humored farang who can appreciate those parts of my Thai surroundings I'll never wrap my head around.

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